Monday, 7 September 2015

Whittier to the Fish Farm at Lake Bay

29/6
Steve and i go up to the Post Office and send my 2 postcards to Gemma & Bryn. The Post Mistress, Suzanne, was very interested in our trip, especially when i told her we had sailed over from Maine, through the Arctic Sea. She actually closed the post office for 20 minutes so she could drive down to the harbour to look at the boat.............:-)
We did some more emailing etc at the Anchor Inn and then back to the boat. We set off about 11:30 for Pigot Bay.
No wind (again), but still plenty of rain.
We anchored in Pigot Bay around 13:30.
Down with the dingy, we go for a stroll on shore.
The "Ghost forest" is next to where we land. These trees were once above water level, then in 1964, during the earthquake this area dropped 6 feet.............the salt water around their roots killed them off.................so here they stand.
It pours with rain all night.

30/6
Pouring with rain again this morning. No rush, so we all grab a shower during the grim weather.
About 11:00 we set off for Lake Bay on Esther Island, arriving about 12:00.
In the bay we know there is a fish hatchery that does guided tours of the plant.........free too............win win.
The manager takes us arund at 14:30, all very interesting they collect the eggs to the number of 1.65million Chum Salmon and about 1.3 million Red Salmom............they ferilize them, then store them in massive trays in the dark, to stop them fertilizing too quickly. They are released next spring.....clever because in 4 to 8 years theynow they will return.........brilliant.
The manager tells us about a walk to the lake at the back of the plant, so off we go.
There is is a board walk through the boggy ground, so easy to negotiate.
We see a black bear, feeding from the big fish ponds, the manager says we will be ok, just make a lot of noise, they are more frightened they we are.............wanna bet !!!
We have out bear spray and fog horns.
up to the lake.....lovely......bald eagles everywhere.
We carry on and the tarck drops back to the shore nearer the mouth of the bay..........we see another black bear feeding.
We get back to the dingy and the fish jumping around the boat is staggering.
We move down the bay in the dingy........nice and slow............i nearly catch a salmon by the tail.
Another black bear is feeding just on shore, we slowly edge nearer.....50m.......40m....30m........20m.......Terje gets these amazing shots.....in the same spot a bald eagle is also feeding.............now we are 10m away from him..........just fantastic..............
I fillet the salmon we cought in a net and have it for supper, lovely jubbly.


Por old Seagull, he just did'nt know which Salmon to go for first !!!




Salmon jumping in the bay


Black bear feeding on.............................yes, you guessed it.....Salmon.


Bald eagle feeding on............................. surprise, surprise........Salmon




Mr. Bear has had enough and off he goes


Fish in a trap before going into the fish farm


One of the fish spawning pools

The fish nets


Steve up at the Lake behind Lake Bay, this provides the fresh water for the fish farm

View across the island, showing the wooden walkway to the beach.


A pond on the way to the beach


Bald eagles everywhere................


The walkway strats to drop down to the beach.


The beach hut


Art farty..........

Video that might or might not work !!!!!!!!!










Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Seward to Fox farm Bay & Whittier.


25/6
Nice wind today as we set off for Fox Farm bay, as usual though it's right on the nose..........darn it.

 Off we go down the East side of Fox Island through the narrow strait then into the strait between Barwell Island and Cape Resurrection......holy polony....the sea has lifted enormously, we had'nt noticed the wind had increased the day before.
We now had a 3m sea running against us.

We turn and head East, this eases the situation somewhat, as we now have the sea beam on (on our side). This is slightly better as you can run along the top of the waves and drop down into the troughs.......still a tad choppy though.
We carry on across the Blying Sound, not getting any respite until we come up the West side of Elrington Island and our anchorage for the night in Fox Farm Bay.
What a beautiful spot.........just stunning.
Talk about the calm after the storm, we had a fantastic night in the bay, just superb.
A large Alaskan motor yacht was already in there and later a small fishing skiff anchored up and promptly started to fillet his days catch.
An otter meandered across the bay to see what he could salvage from the filleting, he did quite well, the fisherman threw plenty overboard for him.........maybe a regular occurrence !

26/6
After a good nights sleep, we had our breakfast and up came the anchor, our next stop is to be Jackpot Bay.
The weather is a bit grim, overcast and bad light.

Bainbridge Fjord came and went, then into Bainbridge Passage. There were fisherman  in aluminium skiffs fishing in the "back eddies", otters lying on their backs eating their lunch......brilliant.....hard to photograph though.

We stopped in one of the inlets to our starboard and had lunch.

Then off we go again, we left the passage behind and came out into the northern section of the passage towards Point Countess................suddenly............................woooooow..................a massive Orca surfaced about 10m on our port side................so quick was it up and down......then out of sight,  we never had chance to photograph her / him......................darn it !!!!

So, diasappointed, we carried on into Whittier.

I called the Harbourmaster on Ch. 16. (later i found out you are supposed to call them on Ch. 68, 16 only in emergencies..................no one, anywhere in the world does that. You always call on Ch.16)

"Yes we have a spot for you, but you'll have to raft up to (tie up alongside another vessel) a 70 footer named Oscar Mike on Alpha jetty"....................... ok that's fine says i.

Steve at the helm we enter the harbour.
Where the chuffing eck is this vessel called Oscar Mike ????.................a guy comes down from the office.......
..."here, here against this landing craft".......
...well, holy polony...............the wind was blowing us off and the tide was running.......what a job we had.

Novara is not the easiest vessel in the world to dock, especially in a cross wind and a tidal flow against you.............she has a flattish bottom and no keel.

As we had very little depth to play with, we could'nt drop the centre board to help us.
The bow thruster was struggling (this normally helps to spin the boat on the axis provided by the keel.) Anyway, after much huffing and puffing we managed to get settled.

AND it started raining................and i mean rain !!!
This persisted for the next 2 days...............very, very, heavy.

Whittier is a port built by the American military in WW2, it is ice free all year round and generally covered in cloud, so easy to hide from the enemy..................you're not joking there matey !!!
I went to the ferry terminal and booked my ticket out of Whittier to Bellingham on the 6th July, hoping i could meet up with Larry & Andrea in Victoria
Until 2001, Whittier was accessible only by boat and the railway, cars etc came in on the train. Then they built the new road tunnel, outgoing traffic on the hour, incoming traffic half past the hour................i joke not !!!
The military pulled out in 1968 after the earthquake of 1964...................there is an enormous derelict barracks building still standing......................all a tad bizarre !!!!!!
We managed to get wifi in one of the cafes in the place, did some emailing etc.

We picked up a new "foghorn" (Steve had ordered it earlier last month). This was to replace the one we lost last year in the Bering Sea....whoops scotties.........yes it was a bit rough !!!

It had been posted to the Harbour master's office.....his name......COLE HADDOCK !!!!  Again .....i joke not !!!!
Really nice lad actually, about Bryn's age (maybe mid thirties)..............cool dude.

AND IT RAINED SOME MORE.......................smoly hoke.......i thought the Lakes were bad...............streuth !!!
The waterfalls coming down the mountains were just incredible to see................my photos don't really capture them well...........they were just torrents............mega !!!



Weather a bit grim as we passed fairly close to Bainbridge Glacier



The motor boat in Fox Farm bay



Panorama of the bay


a shot through one side of the bay


forest all around us..........it's the largest Temperate Rain forest in the world !!

a better shot through the gap the next morning............improving weather


Steve having a swift one



..............................and a close up !!!





Whittier


The accomodation block, the entire town live in here; apart from the one's that live in the hotels etc etc.

One of the workshops.


Another shot the flats.

Another of the large workshops left by the Army.


Walking the pet reindeer................??


The sun does shine n Whittier......................sometimes !!!



Harbour view and some of the fishing skiffs.


Novara berthing up next to the landing craft.


View to the hotel across the harbour.


Nearly done it.....................

closer..............


and closer..............


Terry, telling Steve how to do it !!!! Actually he's like a coiled spring awaiting a line !!!



Waterfalls coming down from the glacier above town...............




The old timber dock.




Tuesday, 21 July 2015

2:30...............well the Dentist for Steve it is.........Wasilla bound


24/6
Up and at em early this morning, at Mr. Hertz (Robin Barsteward), for 08:00, car collected and i'm designated driver for the day (i know.....mad fools).
Steve is concerned he maybe a bit worse for wear after 2 root canal fillings.

A "Mitsubishi Gallant" is our Limo for the day, a very superior automobile i might add. It's a beautiful morning and looks set to be a hot one.
Wasilla or bust !!

A stunning run down Highway 9 to Anchorage and then on Highway 1 for the trip north from Anchorage to Wasilla.
I might add here, the Alaskan road works are as bad as in Britain !!!! .......SLOWWWWWW !!!
Steve is nearly beside himself, his appointment is 13:25.

We, of course take a wrong turn in Anchorage and end up in the Port, then, waste disposal facility, then downtown (what does that mean??). It's no good, we'll have to ask, into the nearest Petrol station we go. By this time i'm bursting for a toilet stop !!!! I go to the RESTROOMS ??? it's locked, get the key from the cashier..................too late Steve has directions............hurry we're going to be late no time for a toilet stop..............Gordon Bennett !!!
Off we go again doen Glenn Highway (why do they do this ?? No mention of places you want to go to, just Street names............crazy !!! Great if you know it, not helpful at all if you're a visitor)
We arrive in Wasilla.

"Right, we're looking for Westpoint Avenue" says Steve.
"Lets try a right here"
.......ahah a McDonalds, how bizarre...........lets turn in their and get a coffee and ask the way........hang on a mo there it is on the right, in we go and at the end of the street is the dental surgery.

Spot on.....good stuff !! Steve goes in, i'm nearly bursting...............down the road i go...............thank goodness a dirt track to the left....................phew thats better.
Steve comes back out and says alls good we are 20 minutes early, lets go for a coffee. About 300 m away there's a Starbucks apparently. A tad against my religion, but, yes i'm ready for a coffee (never frequent Starbucks normally).

We get some wifi in the coffee shop and do the usual.
Soon time to go back to the dentist. We drop Steve off. Terje and i have a meander into downtown Wasilla......................well.......phew, what can i say............it has lots of modern shops, Malls......... an old (1920's) railway station and an old bar - "Mug Shots"..........that's it !!!
Wasilla has no centre.......nothing !!!!

Well that's the answer then, into the bar.............."Mug Shots" here we come.
At the entrance there's a sign :
"Enter if you Dare"

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm, thirst gets the better of us !!!

I have a Sprite and Tel has a Guinness.............guess who gets the sideways look from the barmaid !!!!
"Hey, i'm driving .....OK" ???

Anyway, they all, turn out to be really friendly, one lady from Birmingham (would you believe it), has been in Wasilla for 50 years. It was her husbands birthday.......79 today...and very spritly he looked too. A very nice couple.

The barmaid eventually took to us and had a long chat, was enthralled with our NW Passage escapad and she insisted we had our photos taken with her...................all good craiche.

Ooooooooooooooo...before i forget, as we were drinking there was an earthquake, apparently they happen nearly every day in the summer and now & then in the winter, What a gas, my first experience of an earthquake
Back to pick up the boy..................he looked very sorry for himself when he emerged from the dentist..................3 No. !!! root fillings later........a mere $3600.............and ....and he was'nt charged for the third !!!!
Off we go back to Seward.
Steve was getting peckish so we stopped at the Summit Lake Lodge..........................
We arrived back in Seward about 20:00.


Mug Shots bar

Summit Lake lodge for supper

view from the bench on Summit Lake


my perfect pad !!

.............. love it !!!


Sunday, 12 July 2015

Northwestern fjord to Seward


22/6
We arise to a stunning morning, the mountain tops are in what they call "Alpenglow".......beautiful.
The day gets better as it goes on...........wall to wall sunshine.............
Lunch stop just before McArthurs Pass, a narrow gap between two islands, the water was running at about 3.0 Kn.
Then onto Pete's Pass, again  a very narrow pass between two islands...........fast running but not as bad as McArthur. Dolphins are chasing the Salmon here, an brilliant sight to see...........no photos though..............too quick and we did' nt have one at hand............DOH !!!
On we go to Seward....................blimey !!!!..........i've never seen so many RV's !!! (Recreational Vehicles).
Up to Ray's Waterside bar for a few sherbets....................i've got to say the Alaskans do have some excellent micro breweries, they really are first class. Just one complaint, i know they like their beer cold, but, glasses from the freezer...............pppppllllleeease !!!
Steve's teeth are still paining him, so he organised a visit to the local dentist to do some very expensive root canal fillings ($3600 for 2No.) in Wasilla, north of Anchorage !!!! It's about 120 miles away !!! Car hire is required.................the boys are off on a road trip.
23/6
A few jobs on the boat and catch up with friends & relatives on skype etc etc.
Steve organises a car with Mr. Hertz, who very kindly lets him borrow one for the day for the small sum of (by the time the mileage is taken into account) $360..................$360 / day !!!!! robin barstewards !!! Anyway, has to be done.
The furnace was one of the jobs on the list, so i cracked on with that..............Steve and i read up about it , AGAIN and wondered if it was'nt getting enough air flow. There is a large allen key affair to regulate the flow across the burner. I tinker about with it......decreasing it ....................wow.......worse than ever, smoke everywhere...............increase it nearly to the max. that's it !!!!! Running as clean as you like and starting every time...yyyyyyyyyyyyaaaaaahhhooooooooooo.

Another job on the list was the Anchor wash (it comes through the deck to the bows next to the anchor.......obviously). Steve had tried to run it but decided it was seized. I played around with it a bit.........opened all the valves, switched her on and off a few times and hey presto..........away she goes !!! Brilliant, we now have the anchor wash up and running again. I think it had got an air lock or hydraulic lock with being closed for so long over the winter., opening the valve on deck appeared to sort that one out.


 "Alpenglow" over the fjord




On the way to Seward



We're through Pete's Pass

Some of the mountain tops and islands onthe way to Seward along the Kenai peninsula



Local fishing boat in the fjord


 Ice finger coming down from the Harding Icefield, just south of Seward


First view of Seward


Panorama of the harbour

Ray's waterfront bar

Kotoi to Northwestern Fjord


..............................................................................................................................................
20/6
Steve and i up at 04:00, anchor up , we are on our way to the Ragged Isles.
Fog comes down........................ggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, it's Labrador & Baffin Island all over again............however, we motor for about 2 hours and we start to see the light at the end of the tunnel. The fog is clearing as we get further away from the coast, excellent.
There is no wind all day, so motoring it is.
The plan is to anchor in Berger Bay on Nuka Island for the night.
A lovely protected cove with splendid views.

21/6
Up and away fairly early, the plan is to get to Northwestern Fjord this afternoon.
A reasonably uneventful trip until, a young Humpback whale decides to come and say hello...................he passes under the boat and alongside us, blowing air out as he goes...............the mass of air bubbles is astonishing............and no sooner as he came, he was gone.........amazing to see. We could see all the way down his back as he went down our starboard side...........a lifetime tick ....AGAIN.........just stunning. Also dolphins today, bald eagles, Otters in abundance....................phew.............how lucky am i !!!!
We carefully work our way through the narrow inlet into the fjord at the once Terminal morraine (only 5.0m deep in parts)..........now miles away from the carving face
We get into the Fjord late afternoon......some ice about, but nothing to talk about..........not like last year !!!
The Kabola furnace decided to pack in again tonight..............darn it.....what now !!!!
I manage to get it going, but only by taking the photo cell out and flashing a torch at it to start it..........more work is needed!!!!
We anchor for the night and at least have a warm boat........great stuff.


A side glacier coming into the Northwestern fjord


No idea why this is doing this  !!!!!



Northwestern glacier at the carving face